COMMON PROBLEMS
Aggression
Submissive Urination
Barking and Whining
Aggression isn’t always a full-out attack. Usually it’s more subtle—but equally dangerous—behavior. Does your dog bare his teeth at you when you reach for his collar to get him off the furniture? Does he stand over and guard his food bowl or special toys? Is walking him difficult because you can’t trust him to greet other dogs nicely? The
Aggression isn’t always a full-out attack. Usually it’s more subtle—but equally dangerous—behavior. Does your dog bare his teeth at you when you reach for his collar to get him off the furniture? Does he stand over and guard his food bowl or special toys? Is walking him difficult because you can’t trust him to greet other dogs nicely? These are all manifestations of aggressive tendencies that will probably lead to a bite incident someday. If you notice anything like this, take immediate action. What to do? Certainly setting limits, rewarding only positive behavior, not responding emotionally, and evaluating diet are things you should implement around your home right away. Of course, reinforcing limits with an aggressive dog can cause the aggression to escalate. There’s basically no way around it: Because of the potential for serious harm, it’s critical to begin working with a professional. Finding someone in your area is the first step; if that person isn’t qualified, they should certainly try to refer you to someone who is.
Barking and Whining
Submissive Urination
Barking and Whining
The first thing to remember about barking is that it’s natural and, for many dogs, it’s quite enjoyable. For your part, when barking or whining aggravates you, try really hard not to “bark” or whine back—which you’re doing if you yell at or plead with your dog while he’s vocalizing in this way. The message he gets from you “barking back”
The first thing to remember about barking is that it’s natural and, for many dogs, it’s quite enjoyable. For your part, when barking or whining aggravates you, try really hard not to “bark” or whine back—which you’re doing if you yell at or plead with your dog while he’s vocalizing in this way. The message he gets from you “barking back” is that maybe he should be louder, or maybe he should repeat himself so that you stop. Instead, teach him to bark on command using the words “speak” or “bark,” and to be quiet on command using the words “shush” or “quiet.”
It’s usually easier to teach “speak” first, while your dog is actually barking. Simply encourage him by saying “Good speak.” Feeding him will necessitate that he stop barking to chew and swallow. When he is finally quiet, say “Good shush,” and reward him again.
Submissive Urination
Submissive Urination
Submissive Urination
When you come inside to greet your dog, does he flop down and begin to wet himself? If so, you have a submissive urinator. First, check with your vet to make sure the problem isn’t due to a health issue. If it’s not, confine him somewhere that’s easy to clean so that you’re not doubly frustrated by a soiled carpet. Crate your dog or put
When you come inside to greet your dog, does he flop down and begin to wet himself? If so, you have a submissive urinator. First, check with your vet to make sure the problem isn’t due to a health issue. If it’s not, confine him somewhere that’s easy to clean so that you’re not doubly frustrated by a soiled carpet. Crate your dog or put him in a safe, confined space. When you approach to greet him after being away for a bit, do so in as emotionless a way as possible. If the problem has been going on for a while, you probably approach him reluctantly, anxiously, or suspiciously. He can pick up on your feelings, and they can contribute to his own anxiousness. Pretend he’s a strange dog whom you must get out the door calmly and gently, but as quickly as possible, so that he can do his business outside. If he urinates as you’re going outside, don’t react. Stay the course to the outside, let him do his thing, confine him again while you clean up, and then get on with the rest of your day. You must respond as unemotionally as possible until you feel you’re making progress. Slow and steady….
Separation Anxiety
This is the term used by some veterinarians and trainers to refer to dogs who go crazy when left alone, attempting to destroy their surroundings, barking and crying uncontrollably, and otherwise causing havoc.
To combat this reaction, acclimate your dog to your comings and goings by starting small and making the experience a positive one. Without making a big fuss over it, decide to leave the house. Put your dog in his crate or a confinement room with a favorite chew toy, turn the radio on to a classical or soft rock station (something soothing) and, without saying another word, pick up your coat, bag, and car keys and leave the house. Walk around the house quietly, listening to or spying on your dog without him knowing. Give him a couple of minutes, depending on whether he gets upset when you leave or not. If he does get upset, allow him some time to settle down. (A really appealing chew toy given on your way out should be enough; if it’s not, find something more appealing.) If he doesn’t get upset but settles right in with the chew toy, give a silent cheer.
When he’s quiet and you’ve been out more than five minutes, come back in as if nothing has happened, put your things down, and quietly and calmly greet your dog. Do not run to him and smother him with kisses. Put on his leash and bring him outside, just as you would if you were returning from a longer trip. Let him learn that you come home and take care of his needs. Do this a few times a day in the first days and weeks, increasing the amount of time you are gone from the house. Stack the odds in your favor by making sure your dog has something worth playing with, that the radio is loud enough but not too loud, that sufficient light and heat is available, and that you have made sure he’s comfortable and safe. If you’re confining him to a single room, be careful about leaving anything around that could make an engaging but unacceptable chew “toy.”
If you feel that you’ve tried your best and the situation is not much better, consult a professional before you become completely exasperated. Consider working with a dog trainer/behaviorist and veterinarian. Your dog may need a medication that could help with his nerves while training him to handle things better.
Behavior Issues don't happen overnight...
When training your dog—whether it’s to learn a new behavior or modify an existing behavior—it’s important to remember that he is an individual. The advice given here may have worked for many dogs and their owners but may not work for your dog and you. Explore other sources. Talk to other dog owners, particularly those who own the same breed.
Observe your dog as objectively as possible when trying to determine the source of problems so that you can understand what might be triggering them. Involve everyone in your household in the game plan to try to solve problems.